Sunday, February 28, 2010

Life... and climbing!



Ever since I have had a job at Dunkin Donuts I have not had much time to climb on the weekends, but I do get to train at the gym on the weekdays with my buddy Brad Weaver and other gym locals. A few weeks ago I made it out to Island Ford, with Sarah, Bobby, Tanner, and someone who actually knows the place really well. I went in order to attempt to snag a few first ascents but mainly about this project I kept hearing about. The Garfuna Project which was estimated to be v11-13. That day I ended up doing 8 first ascents as well as the garfuna project, which weighed in at about V7 after jumping to a jug rather than a gaston crimp. HA! But the day was really cool and the climbs also.

Me on the FA of Right Handed Despise V7ish?



Here is Tanner Ayers on the 2nd Ascent of the Garfuna V7ish?

This last weekend was perfect! On friday I had a fun gym session with Brad Weaver, this kid is so strong and motivated and has been helping me progress significantly in climbing. Saturday me and sarah left right after I got off of work at 12 and had a session at rocktown. Sarah forgot her camera but we both had a good day. After warming up we headed to the vagina area where I sent digital scales V9 2nd go of the day! After that I looked at the womb V10. The holds all looked good so I decided to give it a go and fell at the very top of my flash. I soon sent on my third try after finding better beta and we were off to nitrous oxide V9 where I also sent! Than we headed to helicopter V6 where sarah quickly dispatched!! Psyched! At the very end of the day I tried blackout v9/10 a few times and came close but no send, but I did end up flashing big bad right V8 and called it a day!

The very next day we followed the same schedule but this time sarah brought her camera! Warming up I felt extremely heavy and weak, but after a while felt a bit better. We headed down to the vagina area where I tried the move on speculum. This move is really hard for me off a left handed jug and a right handed crimpy pinchy ok hold and throw to a good little pockety thing. The move at first seemed ridiculous but after a few attempts I stuck it so I decided to try it from the start. It felt really difficult but after about 5-6 good tries I was able to send!!! For the rest of the day we just ran around the boulder feild trying to burn out finish the day off well..

Here are some pics of me rockin the rock pillars on Speculum V9























Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Island ford

I went climbing about a week ago in a metro Atlanta area with almost no guide so I will be headed up soon with some people who know the area. Here is a quick vid of my short session.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2jY87XM6vY

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Fight Club

Video of me doing the FA of Fight Club v8/9. If for some reason this video does not work for you, than go to youtube.com and type in Fight Club V8.

video

Monday, February 1, 2010

Rock Pillars!

I apologize that I have not been updating my blog lately, but I am happy to say that those days are over. School and climbing have been keeping me extremely busy, but it's all good now. Anyways...

Some of you already know that I have switched shoes to a company from the Czech Republic, called Rock Pillars. At first I was skeptical about the shoes, but after about five minutes of wearing them I realized that the eastern Europeans had narrowed down shoe making into an art. These shoes, not only stick to just about any foot hold, but they are like climbing in socks. Once your foot slips into them they immediately take the shape of your foot. I first tried them while helping host at a comp at Escalade Climbing gym, and they were magnificent! I was psyched. So today I went over near the Chattahoochee River Park to see how they could perform on real rock and I was really surprised. Any foot hold I placed them on, no matter how small, they didn't even budge. Wowawoowa!! Any time I heel hooked or toe hooked they stuck. I am really psyched on them and would love to see more of them out here in the states. If anyone is interested in getting a pair just visit my facebook and tell me, or email me at e_unit_soviet@yahoo.com, but the easiest way would be talking to the U.S. rep who lives here in Georgia, by going to his facebook: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/climbnchase?ref=ts

So far I have tried the Pearl Slipper and the Top Gun(velcros) and am extremely happy!!

The Top Gun


The Pearl Slipper

Today Was the First day I took these shoes outside and ended up sending a really cool, yet a kinda dirty first ascent, calling it Fight Club. Hopefully vid and pics will be up soon. I called it about V8/9, but I really have no idea and would love some consensus!!

Peace