Tuesday, July 6, 2010
About a month ago me and sarah had plans to go up to the Red for three weeks, gain some endurance there, and hopefully send some harder routes. That was the plan when we set out to the red with our friends Joey and Daniel Bakos and Tanner Ayers, but sometimes things don't turn out as planned. We were at the red for a week and the conditions were absolutely horrible. The humidity was outrageous along with rain every other day if not every day. After a week of being there we hiked up to the motherload one overcast day and were not psyched at all. We did not want to be there, but Sarah had a wonderful spontaneous idea. Lets drive to Utah. We thought about this for about thirty seconds and decided to go through with this new and amazing idea. We got in the car, drove to Miguels to take down our tent and we were headed to Utah were we would stay for two weeks.
We stayed in salt lake city and were able to do so much climbing within our two weeks!! We went to little cottonwood to boulder one day and also hit up big cottonwood but mainly spent our time at maple canyon. The pipe dream cave!! We were able to climb there about six or seven times before we headed home, and we sent more in these conditions that we would have ever in the red. At the pipe dream cave the average weather was in the low 80s with no humidity and the psych was super high!!! Sarah was able to do many new 12s including some flashed and sent her first 12c!!! I also enjoyed our time out here and was able to send:
Super Spunk 13a
Beyond Fitness 13b
La confianza 13b
The Diggler 13b
Ego Boost 13d
Mexican Rodeo 13d
Wyoming Sheep Shagger 13d
This was my first time climbing lots of routes with my Rock Pillars and they were amazing. The pearls can pull really hard on small feet on extremely overhung walls and roofs and at the same time I can trust them to stand up on shitty feet on a delicate face climb, they are simply an amazing and impressive slipper! We had an amazing time, and though we wanted to stay longer we were happy to come back to climb at Stone Summit!!
Fifteen minutes from where we were staying! Beats the summer heat!
Sarah warming up in Little Cottonwood Canyon
Far left side of pipe dream
Left side of the actual cave
Me on Super Spunk
Also, I forgot to ever put this up. A little more than a month or so me and sarah went to little river canyon when it started getting warmer out to go water bouldering. We just played around a bit and I ended up putting a really cool FA up!! I called it temper tantrum. It took about an hour for me to figure out all the moves and send it but I ended up doing this amazing power problem. This problem is so good! You start on a slot jug go left hand to a bad side pull edge that turns ok when you campus to the next side pull, get a right foot high in the jug and bump big to a good slopey hold and go big out left to a small edge, heel hook your right hand and grab a good hold. From there you just traverse left to a huge hold and drop off. I am really glad that I had the Rock Pillar Pearls because with that shoe I can really pull with my toe and for the heel hook this slipper actually stays on your foot! The pearls are amazing because they are comfortable and amazing when it comes to fit, comfort and performance!! I was psyched to have done it but I believe that in the winter it would be a V8ish, Super cool but time will tell the grade...
Setting up for the big bump "crux" move
Move out left to the edge