Tuesday, March 30, 2010

The Red

I have been training endurance for about two weeks now, because me and sarah are going to the red this friday for a bit over a week! I am so very psyched to gain endurance, but sad to stop bouldering. This last weekend we went out to t-wall to go route climbing for the first time in about a year. I warmed up on Curb sandwich 5.12A and found myself a bit pumped at the top, sarah bolt to bolted it and easily crushed it in a few goes. I did it again feeling a bit better and headed over to psychopath. I have tried this route last season and felt as though it was really hard. It starts with chossy 5.5 climbing to the first bolt which is about twenty feet of the deck! From there you climb a beautiful wall of perfect pockets to the crux. It is four bolts of good medium sized holds into a redpoint crux after a difficult clip. The crux is about V6ish and you are a bit tired. I remembered the crux being really hard on link. I bolt to bolted the route and I felt much much stronger than last season, so I lowered, untied, tied back in and sent!! Me and sarah felt accomplished for the first day of routes and our day projects sent so we headed home!

So psyched for the red!!!!

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Bouldering season is coming to an end...

The weather is getting much warmer and I am still not wanting to let go of bouldering. I had an amazing season bouldering with good friends and good sessions. Lots of laughs and new people to laugh with. In two weeks the route season will officially begin because me and Sarah are going to the Red for a week, so I hope I can build some endurance there and maybe even send some new climbs!!
This weekend was extremely warm and we had plans to go to Alabama, however the whole crew, which included my lovely Sarah, Joey and Daniel Bakos, and myself decided to drive up to rocktown instead. We left after I got off of work and headed up. I wasn't too extremely psyched to go, but was really exited just to climb on rock. Right as I began to warm up I realized it was extremely warm and route season is coming. I think every one of us realized that. We warmed up in the orb area where joey and daniel played around on the greasy slopers of the orb, but no bueno for either of them. Next we headed down to the vagina area where Sarah tried the Island of beautiful women and Daniel and Joey tried the vagina. Every body came super close but no sends, just lots of grease. Right before we headed down to the vagina area I ran down to see if the little cave that the womb was in was cooler in temperature and surely enough it was. Having done the womb I was interested in seeing if there were any close and similar lines, and found one. I found holds that came out of the middle of the womb, so I excitedly brushed them off, had sarah take pictures and started to attempt the moves. At first they felt extremely difficult! I could hold them but not move off of them but after about thirty minutes of figuring it out I managed to send! The climb felt much harder than the womb but it was a little warm so I estimate it to be V9ish. Assuming it was a first ascent I called it the Discharge. After that we went to the back, I sent the sit to the comet, than climbed on some classics and we all hungrily headed out.

Sarah on the Island of Beautiful Women

Joey on Swamp Sauce

Me trying to figure out which holds to use

Me on the fourth move with a retard looking hand ha!

Checkin out the holds

Video of the Discharge V9?? I need consensus

If anyone knows of this climb or knows if it isn't or is an FA than please comment!!

Monday, March 8, 2010


Sunday we had another great day at rocktown. After work me and sarah left for rocktown to finish off what we couldn't do last weekend. After warming up in a crowded bunch of gumbies we were off to our projects. I tried iron claw V10 for the second time and got really frustrated that I made no progress. Fifteenish minutes later, after reworking beta, it wasn't so bad and I sent! After that we hiked over to golden harvest and it still whooped my ass. This was my second real session on it and still no bueno. Sarah managed to crush golden showers v5 no problem and than went on to send blue V6 very quickly!! Strong! After all of that we hiked up to blackout v10 and I tried it for about an hour. It was a while before I decided to change my beta, than I chalked the holds put a tick so i could see and sent!! We were both feeling pretty worked at this point but still got on little bad boulder v5, which is a must do at rocktown!! After this tiring day I managed to send aluminati v9 on the way out adding to the day's psych!

Sarah after topping out Blue V6!

Me on Blackout V10

Me on Ironclaw V10


Sarah floating up Blue V6!

This next weekend is prom so it will be just a bunch of gym sessions for twoish weeks and than some more climbing!!