Monday, November 30, 2009

LRC

This last Wednesday I dragged Joey Bakos to LRC with me. He didn't climb much, for he had a pulled tendon, yet he managed to crush the Chronic V7. I felt so heavy warming up so I just headed to harder climbs. I managed to do House of leaves V8 second go, falling of the last move on the flash hah. After that I went to try Biggie Shorty and ended up repeating it really quickly and than repeated instinct first go! I feel like I'm getting into the bouldering groove again. After that I moved on to send the mechanic V7, which felt really hard to me and finished the day off with my hundred tries of Tennessee Thong V7. It's a really god climb but I fell on the flash on the bump move touching the jug and realized after a few goes I would not be able to do it that way. After finding out some heel toe cam beta it went!! Video on facebook by Randy Blount at http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=698253344&ref=ts#/video/video.php?
v=237829423344

Peace!

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

HP40


Early on monday our crew took a trip to Horse pens, I was really psyched to get on climbs I haven't been on in a while!! As I rolled up and turned into HP I drove into a cloud. You couldn't see thirty feet in front of you at first. Most of the top outs were soaked. Perfect climbing conditions. After setting up our tents, the weather started to slightly clear up. I warmed up super well by running some laps on the Wasp and than doing a cool V5 behind it. Than we headed to the redneck boulder where I did redneck V6/7 and missing the point V7. After that we headed to the Slider area. The top half of the boulder was pretty wet, but covered in good holds. My Sarah ended up sending cuts like a knife V5 easy!!!! I proceeded to send Cuts low V7 and Litz Pocket V8. I was feeling pretty decent at this point and decided to try Caddilac Thrills V9. Last year I couldn't do the second move and this year I was slipping off of the last wet good side pull. A bit bummed but psyched to come back this upcoming weekend. Afterwards I did the Sierzant Problem V7 and than cooled down.



Daniel Bakos sending his project 1st go of the day, Redneck V6/7, and me helping moraly.....



Missing the Point V7

Sarah wounded and mean muggin due to the sharpness of Cuts like a Knife V5

Sarah Bain Sending Cuts like a Knife!!!!!!!!!!

Me attempting Cadillac Thrills only to fall at the last wet hold four times

Fun trip psyched to head back!!!

Sunday, November 22, 2009

LRC


Yesterday me and sarah met up with Brad and Haley at the good ole waffle house, ate, and proceeded to LRC. The weather was nice, but a bit warm. Brad really hurt his shin slipping off the start of The Law V11 but ended up sending next go!! I was psyched to get on something I hadnt ever tried called The Blacksmith V9, and after a couple of goes it went! Tommorow I am headed to HP40 and am psyched. For more info pertaining to yesterday check out Brad Weavers Blog!!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Holy Hooded Hippopotami

Today after school me and sarah met up with the strongest of the strong, Brad Weaver. We headed to the Marietta Mangler to give him a tour of this enchanted choss. We barely had anytime to really get down and climb because of this ridiculous day light savings time thing. Just when the temps start to drop, you have to leave earlier on account of the sun going down. Any way. After attempting warming up at a place with no warm ups unless you are , Chris Sharma or Chuck Norris or some one, Brad flashed the 2nd ascent of Fat Apocalypse V8 easily!! It was sick. We had a really fun mini session and I ended up sending my project at sun set and calling it Holy Hooded Hippopotami! I think it is a V8 or V9. It needs a repeat.


Here are some pics.


Here is Brad attempting to warm up by hanging on a sharp jug, which is the start to the mangler.












We started to work this project which has yet to see an ascent. It starts on kill whitey V7 but right before the crux you make a move out left to a decent crimp, throw a heel and rock BIG to a small edge.












Brad sticking one of the harder moves of the project, he got past the hard part and grabbed a chossy hold that was flexing and seemed as though it was about to break. SKETCHY!!!


















This is the second move for both the project and Kill Whitey. Lots of small incut crimps on this wall.










Here is my FA of the day, Holy Hooded Hippopotami. It starts down low and left out of the picture and makes a pretty big move to a gaston off of an ok left hand and a small right handed crimp. From there you hit an intermediate and bump to the jug my left hand is on. Make some umphy moves to the good crimps out right and go straight up a sketchy V5




I have to work all weekend so I am not going to be able to climb....
but the weekend after that I will be real psyched to go bouldering some where else!!!
Peace!

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Rocktown on a tuesday




Finally I got to get outside after only being able to climb twice in the last two weeks. I set for a comp all last week and was so stressed. I pretty much only had Sarah Bain and Joey Bakos saved the day when he showed up friday. Thanks guys!

As for rocktown, it was a lot of fun. I though I would not be able to pull myself off the ground on a V4 but actually surprised myself. Warming up, I felt extremely heavy but when the CRANK started to kick in and my muscles warmed up I felt pretty ok. I started off by hiking to the Vagina and working the moves. They felt really difficult but as soon as I figured out the intricate beta it felt surprisingly easy. Next we moved on to the sherman roof. I had never tried the traverse and was pretty psyched to try it. I tried the first move of brown hole a couple times and it kept shutting me down, which really pissed me off. The move is so so huge! I decided to see where the crux was so I started from the first move and did it first go to the top out, surprising myself. I rested tried the first greasy move a couple of goes and was infuriated at not being able to stick it. After resting for a bit I did the move and crushed the rest of the climb from there! It felt 13Cish for me, but really amazing line nonetheless.
The mangler with my buddy Brad Weaver tomorrow!!! so so Psyched!!
weesguncrush!



Sarah on her complete new antistyle project!!
Nose Candy V6
Her on this climb is like Oprah Winfrey at a KKK exercise convention.












The first big move of the Sherman Roof Traverse V9. Greasy yesterday.











The Vagina V8. So beta intensive....













So psyched on the mangler tomorrow, hope I send that mini project.

Monday, October 19, 2009

HP40

Horse Pens 40

Me and Sarah on a freezing winterish day

Finally, the cold is coming, the temps are dropping, and bouldering season is arriving. It's about time to unclip, untie, grab your pads and warm clothes and wrestle some pebbles!

This weekend was FREEZING. It was the first real weekend of cold and of course I failed to bring my sleeping bag and down jacket. On the bright side, when the sun did come out, the bouldering was really fun. At first warming up was a really arduous task, but as my hands and body started to warm up I managed to flash a cool V8 called short long. Also that day I kinda flashed Cuts like a knife low V7 ( I had done the stand start). After that I climbed a really beta intensive v7 called missing the point and the next day flashed wasteland V7. Other than that I feel like I'm just getting into the groove of bouldering again and am psyched to keep getting better!!
I can tell this will be a good season, for I also want to do some route climbing in between all this bouldering, and I feel like I'm getting much stronger!! Here are some pics.....

The pick directly up is me on
Slush puppy low v8...



Me playing on the mega classic Slider V9. The friction was horrible on account of the slight mist.




Litz Pocket Problem V8. This one is really cool, with a huge swing for the last move!

Joey Bakos battling the nasty sloper on Wasteland V7

Litz Pocket

Here is my Sarah Bain Testing her pinchy sloper strength on the ultra classic Man with a slow hand V4

Saturday, October 10, 2009

I made the best of the SAT day that I could....Oct 10th

The start of the Marietta Mangler V10/11
Me playing on Pursuit of Crappiness V10

Today I took the SAT but quickly afterward went to a small local bouldering spot in metro Atlanta called the Marietta Mangler. I went with my lovely girlfriend Sarah to take some pics for my new sponsors Kuhl and Redpoint Nutrition!!! Kuhl makes some kick ass clothing that will make you look good and cool (punny!) and CRANK, made by Redpoint Nutrition, will allow you to train harder and excel at an expedited rate!!!!! After all that we went to the most badass restaurant ever called Nori Nori, sick jap restaurant!! Here are some pics and a video of me flashing some problem on the "half way" boulder to the
mangler, I think it's somewhere from V5+ to V7- or v17. haha cool climb though. Bad holds to smaller crimps with big moves!!!! PEACE!

Playin on a project at the mangler
The v8- crux of the mangler after the v6 crux

My girl Sarah Bain on the last crux of the Mangler.
Workin her new project, Anthrax V7
Me trying my contrived new mini-project on
the half-way boulder. I think it is really hard!

This is the first move that I almost stuck. Two
bad crimps to a bad downsloaping ledge. I never
did stick it but this "almost moment "
was taken by the lovely Sarah Bain!!
video


Sarah's first plate at Nori Nori!!
3rd plate down, five more to go!
And Dessert!!!
My drunken mom and step-dad

Me and my beautiful Sarah at Nori Nori


Thursday, February 5, 2009

Dumpster Diving B7

A video pertaining to urban buildering????
video

Wednesday, February 4, 2009